August 18, 2023: L12s & T-Party | San Juan Island

Sep 26

Date: Friday, August 18, 2023
Location: Landbank Westside Preserve, Reuben Tarte, and Lime Kiln Point, San Juan Island, WA
Weather: Mostly sunny, 68 degrees Fahrenheit with 7mph winds from WNW
Tide: Low/Flood
Pods: The L12s | T34s, T36As, T37/37Bs, T46s
Total Whale Count: 27
Behaviors: Foraging, traveling, socializing
Boat Count: 10+

Upon hearing reports of members from all three Southern Resident pods (J, K, and most of L), members from Orca Conservancy decided to take a day trip and catch an early ferry to San Juan Island in hopes of seeing the whales. We were on the 6:15am ferry, putting us on the island a little after first light. The previous evening, members of J and K pods had traveled north, while the L12 subgroup had been seen traveling down island.

Sometimes members of the Southern Resident killer whales (SRKWs) will spend time foraging off of Salmon or Hein Bank, southwest of San Juan Island. So with no reports of the whales’ whereabouts yet, we decided to grab some snacks from the store and head down to South Beach to scan out towards the banks to see if the L12s may be there. Our hunch was correct, while we were in the store, a friend spotted whales from Cattle Point, so off we went to South Beach where we watched some whales foraging about a mile offshore. At the time, many suspected it was members of the SRKWs, but we were waiting for ID confirmation. After 30 minutes of a steady hand and keen eyes, we snapped some photos and were able to get an ID shot of L113 Cousteau, confirming we were viewing SRKWs, specifically the L12 matriline.

We watched the L12s until they eventually pushed far enough offshore to where we could no longer see them. At this point, another report of orcas had been posted, and this time it was a group of transient or Bigg’s killer whales (mammal eaters) traveling north along the east side of San Juan through San Juan channel. We were on the complete other end of the island and didn’t know if we would have time to intercept them, but we decided to try and made our way up to Reuben Tarte County Park.

Our timing was perfect, and as we arrived the whales had just come into view and started making their way into Speiden Channel. There were multiple matrilines present including members from the T34s, T36As, T37/37Bs, and the T46s, totaling 16 individual whales. (Note that T46 and T34A1 were not present). As we watched the whales who started heading east through Spieden, a small group of whales (some of the T36As) surfaced right below the bluffs where we were all standing, giving a very close pass. The whales took their time, possibly sharing a snack and playing with one another. There were multiple young calves in this group and they spent several minutes close to shore. They were close enough that Kylo, the unofficial volunteer dog of Orca Conservancy watched them closely and even barked at them (he usually watches them in silence).

The T Party (what we call multiple matrilines of transient killer whales traveling together) was broken up into a few groups. They slowly continued east, giving us a couple more close-to-shore passes. The groups then split, one group sneaking back northwest and the other continuing east. Once they were out of sight, we decided to make our way back to town. On the way, we got reports that the L12s had worked their way back to the west side of the island and were slowly trending up island.

In hopes of intercepting the L12s, we made our way over to Land Bank where we sat for close to an hour waiting. After the time of waiting, we suspected they may have stalled and were foraging in what local land-based whale watchers often referred to as “no man’s land”, which is a span of private property that is not accessible for viewing. Suspecting that the whales may be in this area, we went to Eagle Cove and were able to spot them. It was at this location we learned the news of the passing of Tokitae, also known as Lolita at the Miami Seaquarium. It was a surreal moment, and our hearts were heavy and also full as we were viewing the presumed family of Tokitae, the L12s. Many believe L25 Ocean Sun, who was present during this encounter, to be the mother of Tokitae, though this cannot be scientifically confirmed as there is not enough evidence to support this theory. Even so, L25 was confirmed to be present during the capture and is the only remaining whale that could possibly have memories of her.

The L12s eventually made their way back up island, so we raced back up to Land Bank to intercept them. They passed Land Bank at a quick pace and closely grouped together with both the young calves in tow. They continued on north, and away from any location we could view them, so we took the opportunity to get dinner and catch up on the news of the tragic loss of Tokitae.

As we finished up in town, the L12s eventually flipped and traveled back down island. We first made out way to Land Bank again, thinking they would continue traveling, however they stalled out around Bellevue Point located between County Park and Lime Kiln Point. After a while of waiting we decided to work our way closer to them and ended up at Lime Kiln. We watched them forage in the distance before they ultimately continued south, giving us a beautiful sunset pass. They were broken up into multiple groups, L94 Calypso with L127 passed us first, and close to shore, where L94 breached twice right in front of all the people viewing on the rocks. Further out was a larger group of whales with a younger whale, which was L113 Cousteau with younger sibling L121 Windsong, and cousin L124 Whistle. Then L119 Joy with L126 passed by, with L25 Ocean Sun out further. L126 would occasionally swim off from mom, porpoising on his own. Making up the trailers of the group was L85 Mystery and L22 Spirit.